Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2024)

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Emily Han

Emily Han

Emily Han is a Los Angeles-based recipe developer, educator, herbalist, and author of Wild Drinks & co*cktails and co-author of Wild Remedies. For recipes and classes, check out her personal site.

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updated Jan 29, 2020

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Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (1)

Makesabout 3 cups

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Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2)

It’s funny how we can maintain that we don’t like a certain food, even as evidence mounts to the contrary. Me, I’ve had a lifelong aversion to eggplant. So when a couple of fat ones appeared in our CSA box, I automatically filled with dread. What on earth would I do with these ghastly vegetables (err, fruits)? After a bit of soul-searching, however, it dawned on me that eggplant actually stars in many of my favorite restaurant dishes – baba ghanoush, kashk-e bademjan, baklazhannaia ikra – all soft and smoky, and addictively delicious when smeared on warm bread. Now I’m kicking myself for wasting so many years not cooking eggplant at home.

For this foray into eggplant cookery, I decided to try Russian-style ikra, also known as eggplant caviar or poor man’s caviar, a velvety spread that can be eaten as an appetizer or side dish. My research turned up many recipe variations, most with tomatoes (fresh or canned) and some with onions, garlic, carrots, peppers, herbs, vinegar, or lemon juice. Rescuing me from overwhelm was my Aunt Margaret, who shared her own family recipe, which turns out to be one of the simplest of all. It beats any restaurant ikra I’ve tasted and is a new summer staple in my household.

My Aunt Margaret grew up in Los Angeles, the daughter of post-World War II Russian immigrants. She learned how to make eggplant ikra from her mom, who in turn learned it from her mother and other relatives. “Mom never had the luxury of getting ‘precise’ quantities,” says Margaret, “but she watched many times how the dish was made, was able to reproduce it, and taught me by just showing me what needed to be done, how much of each ingredient was necessary – not forgetting of course the Taste Test! After a few shots at it, I got it down just like Mom’s and Grandma’s versions.” Even though we aren’t blood relatives, I’m endlessly grateful that Margaret shared this piece of her family heritage with me, and now you.

Margaret’s ikra calls for just a handful of ingredients: eggplant, onions, tomato paste, oil, salt, and pepper. Roasting the eggplant transforms the texture from spongy to silky, and the smoky-sweet flavor melds perfectly with tender sautéed onions and umami-rich tomato paste. I tinkered with her method only slightly for the recipe below. (For example, I prefer olive oil, while she uses canola.) It makes about 3 cups, which seems like a lot until you start – and can’t stop – eating it on everything from Russian rye bread to pita crackers, on sandwiches, with eggs for breakfast, and with pasta for dinner (add a little chopped parsley and cheese, if you wish). Yes, I think I can now say I love eggplant!

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Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (Baklazhannaia Ikra)

Makes about 3 cups

Nutritional Info

Ingredients

  • 2

    large eggplants (about 1 pound each

  • Olive oil, vegetable oil, or canola oil for cooking

  • 2

    medium onions, chopped

  • 3/4 cup

    (6 ounces) tomato paste

  • Kosher salt

  • Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F.

  2. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork and place on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast in the center of the oven, turning over once, until soft, about 1 hour.

  3. Let the eggplants cool in a colander in the sink, where their juices can drain. When cool enough to handle, press any excess liquid out. (This step helps to reduce any bitterness.)

  4. Meanwhile, heat 1/4 cup of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 20 minutes.

  5. Cut the eggplants in half and scoop out the flesh. Discard the peel. Using a large knife, chop the flesh very finely. (Avoid using a food processor, as you want the eggplant to be more textured than a purée.)

  6. Add the eggplant to the onions along with the tomato paste, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a couple good cracks of black pepper. Turn the heat to low-medium and cook, stirring frequently, for 10-15 minutes. Add more oil as necessary to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. (Be liberal with the oil; any excess will rise to the top as the mixture cools, and you can remove it then, if you wish.)

  7. Transfer the mixture to a heat-proof bowl and let it cool completely before storing in the refrigerator. Adjust salt and pepper to taste before serving.

Related: Recipe Review: Roasted Eggplant Caviar from Good Food

(Images: Emily Ho)

Filed in:

Gluten-Free

Side Dish

vegan

Vegetables

vegetarian

Dairy-Free

Recipe: Sweet & Smoky Eggplant Spread (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to cooking eggplant? ›

"When you lay them on the tray to roast, make sure they're in a single layer and give them enough room to roast properly. Eggplant is about 80 to 90 percent water, so when you put them in the oven they need space to evaporate all that water and caramelize properly," says Covarrubias.

How long does eggplant spread last in the fridge? ›

Yield: This recipe makes six snack-sized servings of Roasted Eggplant Dip; each slightly more than ⅓ cup. Storage: Store leftovers covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

Why does baba ganoush taste smoky? ›

If you have an outdoor grill, that's the preferred method to make baba ganoush. The open flame imparts the best smoky flavor! If you don't have an outdoor grill, roasting your eggplants on a gas stovetop is the next best option.

What happens if you don't salt eggplant before cooking? ›

Older recipes call for salting eggplant to draw out the bitter juices, but today's eggplants are less bitter (unless very large), so salting is largely unnecessary. It will, however, help the spongy flesh absorb less oil and crisp up like a dream.

Is it necessary to peel eggplant before cooking? ›

While the skin of a small young eggplant is edible, the skin becomes bitter on larger or older eggplants and should be peeled. When in doubt, the answer to, "Do you peel eggplant before cooking?" is yes, peel it. Use a vegetable peeler or paring knife to remove the skin.

How to use Trader Joe's eggplant spread? ›

Based on a traditional Bulgarian recipe (and made in Bulgaria to boot), our Eggplant Garlic Spread is stellar on sandwiches, toast, crackers, and crostini, to be sure. But it also makes for a mighty flavorful addition to a traditional ratatouille—particularly when said ratatouille is paired with penne pasta…

Can you freeze eggplant spread? ›

Once cool, halve the eggplant, scoop out the flesh, put them in a food processor or blender and mix them until smooth and creamy. Transfer the purée into freezer-safe containers and label. When you are ready to use your purée, simply thaw it in the refrigerator and add it to your favorite recipes.

How long does Trader Joe's eggplant spread last? ›

Trader Joe's Eggplant Garlic Spread with Sweet Red Peppers

A: Label on jar says :Refrigerate after opening. Consume within 10 days after opening for best quality.

Why put salt on eggplant before cooking? ›

In The New Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, Deborah Madison recommends salting slices or cubes for 30 minutes to remove bitterness, 60 or more to achieve better fried eggplant.

How thick to cut eggplant for frying? ›

Cut the eggplant into 2cm / 0.8” rounds. Spray each side generously with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Brown – Heat a large non-stick pan with a lid over medium high heat, no oil.

Why does my eggplant taste bitter? ›

Age and Size: Whether an eggplant is mildly or extremely bitter can depend on the age and size of the fruit. (Yes, eggplant is a fruit.) Larger, more mature eggplants can be more bitter, typically because their seeds are larger and seeds tend to hold on to the most bitter flavors.

Which is more fattening hummus or baba ganoush? ›

Both have 0% cholesterol and are high in fiber and protein content. Nonetheless, hummus has higher calorie content than baba ganoush, and baba ganoush contains vitamins B and E, which are nonexistent in hummus.

What's better for you hummus or baba ganoush? ›

3) Health – Both dishes are very healthy, but baba ganoush has a slight edge here with more vitamins from the eggplant and a lower calorie count. 4) Big meal to come – Get baba ganoush, it's less filling than hummus.

What does baba ganoush mean in English? ›

The Arabic term for the dish means “pampered daddy,” the person in question being, legend has it, a sultan spoiled with a concoction invented by a member of his harem.

What do you soak eggplant in before cooking? ›

Brining Instructions
  1. Fill a large bowl with 1 tablespoon salt and about 1/2 cup hot water. ...
  2. Fill the bowl with about 2 quarts cold water. ...
  3. Cut the eggplant into the size and shape you need for the recipe. ...
  4. Let the eggplant sit in the brine for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.
Oct 2, 2019

How do you cook eggplant so it's not spongy? ›

“The absorptiveness of eggplant can be reduced by collapsing its spongy structure before frying,” he writes. Which you can do by microwaving it before frying (!) or salting slices that'll draw out the water and close up those air pockets, giving you a firmer flesh to work with.

How to prevent eggplant from absorbing oil when frying? ›

Typically eggplant behaves like a sponge, soaking up heroic amounts of oil when fried. The Terzo Piano chefs use this trick to prevent heavy aubergines: Before frying, soak the strips of eggplant in an ice water bath. They will absorb water and drop in temperature.

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